Tuesday, April 19, 2011

A Lesson in Skin Care

Guess what? ...I got the job at the spa! It's a high end beauty and health establishment offering medical grade skin care solutions. The amount of information that I need to absorb is a little overwhelming, but I love it. Since things are slow in the way of makeup, I'll take a couple of minutes and talk about skincare instead.

Most importantly, Sunscreen is necessary if you want to avoid premature aging. You need a broad spectrum formula that offers UVA and UVB protection with an SPF above 15 - but preferably 30. Make sure you get up close and personal with the vulnerable skin around the eye area! And no, not all sunscreens feel greasy and smell like sunscreen.

A decent cleanser followed by a toner will remove makeup, impurities, and excess oils; exfoliate dead skin cells; and balance PH levels. If you have oily/combination skin, choose a foam or a gel cleanser. If you have dry skin, choose a cream cleanser.

Vitamin C serum is the secret to an effective anti-aging regime. Every day our skin is exposed to the environment: radiation from the sun, air pollution, cosmetics, etc. This exposure causes the outermost protective layer to deteriorate over time, allowing oxygen to penetrate into the deeper, more susceptible tissues. The molecules deep in your skin will start to oxidize and release free radicals. Free radicals are unstable molecules that bond with surrounding molecules which in turn become unstable - creating a chain effect resulting in loss of elasticity, slower cell turnover, fine lines, wrinkles, uneven skin tone, and irregular cell behavior.

Vitamin C (a.k.a. L. Ascorbic acid), is an anti-oxidant and collagen booster. It will prevent the oxidation of surrounding cells and neutralize existing free radicals while increasing the production of collagen. It is most effective as a serum because liquid is absorbed deeper into the tissues than a cream or a gel, which are both solid state. Be sure to press the serum into your skin with your fingers each morning after cleansing and toning. If you use Vitamin C you will notice improvement in overall skin tone and texture, but bear in mind that not all Vitamin C formulas are created equal. Serums that contain L. Ascorbic acid in its rawest form are the most effective as opposed to brands that claim Vitamin C but dilute their formulas with a base, upsetting the natural PH balance of the skin.

Exfoliation is an important step in improving skin texture and Retinol Treatments are superb exfoliators. Retinol is a form of Vitamin A that will resurface the skin by sloughing off dead cells, which encourages regeneration of new cells. It also accelerates the production of collagen and elastin, kills bacteria, and helps heal wounds. Acne is caused when dead skin cells fall into pores and cause irritation - since retinol removes the dead skin cells, it also helps clear up acne. It's a very potent treatment so you will probably notice your skin starting to peel slightly after a day or two. This is supposed to happen - it means the process is working. Start off doing a retinol exfoliation once per week and work up your resistance from there. Apply the retinol at night after cleansing and toning, but before moisturizing. When you're on retinol, it's extremely important that you use sun protection every day as you will experience increased photosensitivity. You'll notice a clearer, brighter, smoother complexion and reduction of fine lines, wrinkles, and discolouration; especially if you use retinol in conjunction with Vitamin C.

And finally, moisturizer. You'll need to moisturize each day and night for optimal results - this will help nourish and hydrate the skin and retain moisture and elasticity. You'll notice softer, more comfortable skin and smoother makeup. Maintaining a high natural moisture factor in skin cells is important because you want to avoid transepidermal water loss, which will result in skin irritation and sensitivity.



These are the products I'm using right now for basic preventative skin care: sunscreen, cleanser, toner, Vitamin C serum, routine retinol treatment, and moisturizer. I could go into more detail with peels, masques, facials, eye creams, skin lighteners, glycolic acids, acne treatments, etc... but I'm still learning and I already feel as though I've just written a prologue for a textbook, or an infomercial; take your pick. The moral of the story? Make sure you get your Vitamin C, boys and girls.

Ciao <3
Lisa